Part 2: Plettenberg Bay & Knysna (click here for the link to the route map)
After two nights at Tsitsikamma, we headed about an hour west towards Knysna. Along our route, we stopped at Plettenberg Bay. It became clear as we drove through this area that it is geared towards the 'rich & famous'. However, the Robberg Penninsula at the tip of Plettenberg Bay is run by the excellent CapeNature, a non-government organization that protects natural areas. As you'll see, it is absolutely beautiful and one of the highlights of our trip.
This map shows the trail along the Robberg Peninsula in two dimensions. Zoom in on this photo to see the different warnings about the trail from CapeNature. The Fountain Shack (icon on the map) is a rustic cabin right on the coastline. If you're willing to take cold showers from a bucket and lug all the necessities (beer & wine) for a 45 minute hike, this is the place to book.
Here's a view of the same trail three dimensions. Note the lack of safety features, but rest assured, it was clearly marked! Also note the lack of people on this beautiful sand beach.
Two of the Earth's greatest monsters are found on the sands of Robberg, possibly explaining the lack of tourists. Behold the Man of Six Toes & the Man of War.
Did we mention that it's beautiful?
Kelsey was ecstatic that halfway through the 2 hours hike, we hadn't seen a single snake!
A handy German tourist (possibly the 6-toed beach monster), kindly offered to take our photo after the hike.
Then, we were off to Knysna...
Above is a panoramic of the most dangerous body of water in the world, the entrance to the Knysna lagoon. We've labeled some of the more interesting features in town, including the best restaurant on the waterfront: Spur (don't worry, Charné, we skillfully obliterated the garnish). As you can see, Knysna is home to the township with the best view in South Africa.
The best thing to do in Knysna is to visit Mitchell's brewery. You'll need a beer after trying to find it.
The "Heads" of Knysna are tall bluffs flanking the entrance to the lagoon. We also took a walk around the East Head, as the West Head was off limits unless you took a ferry and paid R450. Jonah was extremely brave and even peered over the edge.
Here's what he saw...
...and here's what his perch looked like from below
Kelsey, however, was not afraid of heights nor of doing her Right Whale impression. After all, there were no snakes on the Head.
Graffiti here was not limited to spray paint. Someone must've really loved Marie.
Hiking down to the bottom of the Heads gives you access to Coney Glen beach: South Africa's strategic sea urchin, limpet, and crab reserve.
Thankfully, it was low tide. No Diving!
After the hike, we stopped at the local café and got this Rooibos Cappuccino. Rooibos tea (red bush) is a premiere hot quaff in South Africa, but is not strictly speaking a tea at all. It's actually a legume that grows as a bush in the Western Cape, in the Clanwilliam District.
In addition to the coastline, Knysna is home to some of the last indigenous yellowwood forests in the world. We drove inland to check them out and to search for plants. Before getting to the forest, we needed to stop at a padstal (literally a "path stall", or farm store) for a drop of liquid courage to face the snakes.
On our "Circle in the Forest" walk, we saw a few specimens of this wacky fungus. Anyone know what this is? We don't have the fungus field guide!
The majestic yellowwood. As you may have guessed, it was raining, so this is the shot we got while dashing back into the car. We were looking for plants, after all.
The best thing about our Knysna accommodation was this cool owl light outside our door. Let's not speak of the barking dogs at 3am, the breakfast bacon stinginess, or the lack of a top sheet when it was 90F at night.
Stay tuned for Part 3: Our tipsy visit to port country.
awesome. Just beyond words! Well for me anyway. Obviously not you!
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